Collecting vintage watches is more than just acquiring timepieces; it’s about appreciating craftsmanship, history, and style. For many, vintage watches offer a tangible connection to the past, embodying stories, memories, and moments in time.
Whether you’re just starting your journey into vintage watch collecting or seeking to deepen your appreciation, this beginner’s guide will help you navigate the world of timeless treasures.
Why collect vintage watches?
Vintage watches carry charm and character rarely matched by modern equivalents. Unlike contemporary mass-produced pieces, vintage watches often boast superior craftsmanship, unique designs, and historical significance.
Each watch can tell a story, reflecting the era in which it was made, the technological innovations of its time, and the personal stories of previous owners.
What makes a watch vintage?
Typically, a vintage watch is defined as a timepiece that is at least 20 years old but less than 100 years old (watches over 100 years old are classified as antiques). Most vintage watches date from the early 20th century through the 2000s. Popular periods for collectors include the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 1930s, mid-century classics from the 1950s and 1960s, and iconic pieces from the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s.
Mechanical movements
A significant appeal of vintage watches is their mechanical movements, particularly manual wind and automatic (self-winding) movements. Unlike modern quartz watches, mechanical watches require intricate engineering, craftsmanship, and precision.
Collectors often prefer mechanical movements for their complexity, history, and the sheer beauty of their engineering.
Key factors to consider when collecting
As you start your collection, several essential aspects should guide your selection of vintage watches.
Condition and originality
Condition is a crucial factor affecting value and desirability. Watches in original or near-original condition typically command higher prices. Look for clear dials, minimal wear, original crowns, unpolished cases, and intact crystals. Original components significantly enhance value and authenticity.
Rarity and provenance
Rare watches or limited-production models are highly sought-after. Provenance, or documented ownership history, can add considerable value, especially if linked to notable individuals or historical events. Watches with original documentation, boxes, or receipts can also increase desirability and collector interest.
Brand and heritage
Certain brands carry substantial prestige in the vintage watch market due to their reputation, quality, and innovation. Iconic watchmakers like Rolex and Cartier remain perennial favourites for collectors. Others that are desired include Patek Phillipe and Omega. Exploring heritage brands helps collectors make informed choices and better appreciate each watch’s historical context.
Style and design
Vintage watches offer a broad spectrum of styles, from elegant dress watches to functional military and sports watches. Identifying a personal style preference helps narrow your search. Art Deco watches are ideal for those appreciating design-led pieces, while military watches appeal to collectors interested in history and rugged aesthetics.
Popular vintage watch styles
Familiarising yourself with popular vintage watch styles can streamline your collecting journey:
Dress watches
Elegant, understated, and timeless vintage dress watches feature simple designs, slim profiles, and often precious metals. Brands like Cartier exemplify the classic dress watch, ideal for formal occasions and refined tastes.
Diving watches
Vintage diving watches, notably the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster, boast robust builds, legible dials, and innovative waterproofing technology. These models attract collectors interested in adventure, history, and practical elegance.
Chronographs
Vintage chronograph watches, equipped with stopwatch functions, appeal to enthusiasts drawn to precision engineering and sports heritage. Iconic models like the Rolex Daytona remain highly collectable and continue to appreciate in value.
Military watches
Characterised by durability and legibility, military watches are prized for their robust construction and historical significance. Military-issued timepieces often feature simple yet functional designs, making them ideal for daily wear and historical appreciation.
Tips for starting a vintage watch collection
As a beginner collector, there are a few tips to help you get started in this world:
1. Research
It is well worth spending time researching watch brands, models, historical contexts, and current market trends. Educating yourself helps avoid pitfalls, ensures authenticity, and deepens your appreciation for each watch.
2. Reputable sellers
Purchasing from trustworthy dealers like Susannah Lovis guarantees authenticity, reliability, and quality. Experienced dealers provide detailed descriptions, provenance, and expert insights, giving you peace of mind and assurance in your investment.
3. Consider the condition
Always prioritise condition and originality. Investing in fewer high-quality pieces in excellent condition is better than accumulating numerous compromised watches.
4. Maintain and service
Vintage watches require regular maintenance and servicing to ensure they function correctly and retain value. Factor this into your collecting budget and consider finding a reputable watchmaker to care for your collection.
5. Enjoyment
Collecting vintage watches is a journey of discovery, enthusiasm, and personal expression. Enjoy each acquisition, appreciating the stories, craftsmanship, and historical connections behind every timepiece.
Start your collection with Susannah Lovis
Collecting vintage watches offers immense rewards. Whether you’re drawn to dress watches, chronographs, military pieces, or diving watches, beginning your collection opens a world of endless fascination and discovery.
Start your journey with knowledge, passion, and thoughtful selections, and you’ll soon own a collection of timeless treasures that continue to inspire and delight.
