As the birthstone for May, the emerald has captivated hearts and imaginations for centuries. With its lush green hue and rich symbolism, this stunning gemstone is more than just a piece of jewellery; it is a powerful emblem of renewal, vitality, and love.
Associated with royalty, revered by ancient civilisations, and adored by modern collectors, the emerald holds a timeless appeal that transcends trends and generations.
A jewel of antiquity
Emeralds are among the oldest gemstones known to humanity. Some of the earliest recorded mines date back to Ancient Egypt, around 330 BC. Cleopatra, the iconic Egyptian queen, was known for her passion for emeralds.
She not only wore them as ornaments but also claimed ownership of all emerald mines in Egypt, gifting the gem to dignitaries and adorning her palace with its vivid green light.
To the Romans, emeralds were symbols of fertility and rebirth — a fitting tribute to the lush month of May, when nature is in full bloom. The philosopher Pliny the Elder wrote extensively about the emerald, praising its “soft, green hue” that was soothing to the eyes. He even claimed that gem cutters would rest their eyes by gazing at emeralds after long hours of intricate work.
In South America, the Muzo people of Colombia were extracting and venerating emeralds long before the Spanish arrived. The stones w
The symbolism of emerald
From mythology to modern-day astrology, emeralds have long been imbued with deep symbolism.
For those born in May, emerald represents:
- Love: Emeralds are believed to open the heart chakra and foster unconditional love and harmony
- Intuition: In ancient lore, emeralds were thought to grant foresight and mental clarity, making them a talisman for truth and understanding
- Renewal: With their vibrant green colour, emeralds naturally align with springtime and new beginnings — perfect for May, a month of fertility, abundance, and blossoming life
- Good fortune: Emerald is believed to attract abundance, success, and good luck
Emeralds are said to nurture the emotional body, promote friendship and balance, and enhance personal growth. Whether worn as a birthstone or chosen for its energy, an emerald is a deeply personal and powerful gemstone.
What makes an emerald special?
Emeralds belong to the beryl family of minerals, with their green colour coming from trace amounts of chromium and vanadium. While their intense colour is their hallmark, it’s also what sets them apart from other gemstones in terms of quality and value.
Unlike diamonds, where clarity is king, emeralds are almost always included. This means they contain internal features or imperfections known as “jardin” (French for garden). These natural inclusions are not only accepted but often celebrated, giving each emerald a unique character and fingerprint.
Factors that influence the value of an emerald include:
- Colour: The most valuable emeralds are a rich, vivid green with a slight bluish undertone. Too yellow or too dark, and the value diminishes
- Clarity: While inclusions are expected, the fewer visible to the naked eye, the more desirable the stone
- Cut: A well-cut emerald enhances the stone’s colour and brilliance, often shaped into its signature emerald cut – a rectangular shape with stepped facets that showcase its depth
- Carat: As with all gemstones, size matters. But due to the fragility of emeralds (they rank 7.5–8 on the Mohs scale), finding large, high-quality stones is rare
The most famous emeralds in the world often come from Colombia, particularly the Muzo and Chivor mines, known for producing some of the deepest green stones with unmatched clarity. However, fine emeralds are also found in Zambia, Brazil, and Afghanistan.
Emeralds in jewellery
Emeralds have long graced the collections of royalty and the red carpet alike. They have been centrepieces in Art Deco designs, Victorian rings, and Mughal treasures. Emeralds are often paired with diamonds or pearls for maximum opulence.
Engagement rings
Emerald engagement rings are a stylish alternative to traditional diamond engagement rings. They reflect individual style and personality. One of the most notable emerald engagement rings is the 20-carat emerald ring given to Wallis Simpson by King Edward VIII. It’s an iconic ring symbolising both romance and rebellion.
For a beautiful vintage emerald engagement ring, consider this contemporary oval-cut emerald ring set between two pear-cut diamonds. For a more traditional style, this emerald and diamond floral cluster ring is incredibly elegant. Alternatively, an Art Deco emerald ring may be a perfect engagement ring for someone who loves the style of the era.
Statement necklaces
Celebrate the beauty of emerald with a simple pendant featuring an oval-cut emerald set in an open setting on a yellow gold chain. For a matching pair, there is a matching Art Deco necklace with a target-style design which matches the Art Deco emerald ring.
A more unusual design that makes a statement is a beautiful emerald and diamond bee pendant featuring two round-cut emerald eyes and studded with rows of diamonds and emeralds across the bee’s body.
Emerald bracelets
Emeralds are ideal for bracelets to add colour to an outfit while still being understated. This emerald and diamond line bracelet features 27 round-cut emerald stones alternating between 27 brilliant-cut diamonds to add sparkle.
For a more modern approach, this contemporary emerald tennis bracelet is set in white gold and features 24 square-cut emeralds, allowing for comfortable wear thanks to the bracelet’s design.
Caring for emerald jewellery
Emeralds are relatively durable but can be more prone to chipping than diamonds or sapphires due to their inclusions and natural brittleness. Many emeralds are also treated with oils or resins to enhance their clarity: a common and accepted practice in the gemstone world.
To keep your emerald jewellery looking radiant:
- Avoid harsh chemicals and ultrasonic cleaners
- Remove jewellery during physical activity or housework to prevent knocks
- Clean gently with a soft cloth, warm water, and mild soap
- Have your emerald professionally checked and cleaned every year, especially if it’s a ring or a frequently worn piece
A meaningful gift for May birthdays
Whether given as a birthstone or an anniversary gift (emerald is the traditional gem for the 20th and 35th anniversaries) or chosen for its beauty, emerald jewellery carries lasting emotional significance.
With its vibrant colour and romantic lore, it’s no wonder this stone has enchanted everyone from pharaohs to film stars. As the birthstone of May, the emerald is a perfect tribute to those born in spring.
So, whether you’re celebrating a birthday, marking a milestone, or simply falling in love with green all over again, an emerald may be the perfect addition to your jewellery box.
